DRESS
              
            
          
          
            
              
                sents
                the
                prevailing
                type
                of
                tunic
                among
                tlie
                Hebrews
              
            
            
              
                of
                tlie
                earlier
                period
                at
                least,
                since
                a
                third
                variety,
                fitted
              
            
            
              
                with
                long
                and
                wide
                sleeves
                and
                reaching
                to
                the
                ground,
              
            
            
              
                was
                evidently
                restricted
                to
                the
                upper
                and
                wealthier
              
            
            
              
                classes.
                This
                is
                the
                '
                tunic
                of
                (i.e.
                reaching
                to)
                palms
              
            
            
              
                and
                soles'
                worn
                by
                Joseph
                and
                the
                royal
                princess
                Tamar
              
            
            
              
                (see
                above),
                more
                familiar
                as
                the
              
              
                'coat
                of
                many
                (or
              
            
            
              
                diverse)
              
              
                colours,'
              
              
                a
                rendering
                which
                represents
                a
                now
              
            
            
              
                generally
                abandoned
                tradition.
                In
                Josephus'
                day
                the
              
            
            
              
                long
                white
                linen
                tunic,
                which
                was
                the
                chief
                garment
                of
              
            
            
              
                the
                ordinary
                priesthood,
                had
                sleeves
                which
                for
                practical
              
            
            
              
                reasons
                were
                tied
                to
                the
                arms
                (Jos.
              
              
                Ant.
              
              
                iii.
                vli.
                2).
                By
              
            
            
              
                this
                time,
                also,
                it
                had
                become
                usual
                even
                among
                the
              
            
            
              
                lower
                ranks
                of
                the
                people
                to
                wear
                an
                under
                tunic
                or
              
            
            
              
                real
                shirt
                (tft.
                xvii.
                v.
                7;
                Mishna,
              
              
                passim,
              
              
                where
                this
              
            
            
              
                garment
                is
                named
              
              
                chBlUk).
              
              
                In
                this
                case
                the
                upper
              
            
            
              
                tunic,
                the
              
              
                kuUoneth
              
              
                proper,
                would
                be
                taken
                off
                at
                night
              
            
            
              
                (Ca
                5S).
              
            
          
          
            
              
                The
                ordinary
                tunic
                was
                made
                in
                at
                least
                three
                ways.
              
            
            
              
                (1)
                It
                might
                consist
                of
                two
                similar
                pieces
                of
                woollen
                or
              
            
            
              
                linen
                cloth
                cut
                from
                a
                larger
                web,
                which
                were
                sewed
              
            
            
              
                together
                along
                the
                sides
                and
                top.
                (2)
                The
                material
                for
              
            
            
              
                a
                single
                tunic
                might
                be
                woven
                on
                the
                loom,
                and
                after-wards
                put
                together
                without
                cutting,
                in
                the
                manner
                of
              
            
            
              
                the
                Egyptian
                tunics
                described
                and
                figured
                in
                Smith's
              
            
            
              
                Diet,
                of
                Or.
                and
                Rom.
                Antiq.'
                s.v.
              
              
                'Tunica'
                (ii.
                904).
              
            
            
              
                (3)
                As
                we
                know
                from
                the
                description
                of
                the
              
              
                chitBn
              
              
                worn
              
            
            
              
                by
                our
                Lord
                at
                the
                time
                of
                His
                Passion
                (Jn
                19"),
                and
              
            
            
              
                from
                other
                sources,
                a
                third
                variety
                was
                woven
                '
                without
              
            
            
              
                seam'
                on
                a
                special
                loom
                (see
              
              
                Spinning
                and
                Weaving)
              
            
            
              
                and
                required
                no
                further
                adjustment.
              
            
          
          
            
              
                The
                garment
                intended
                by
                the
                'coats'
                of
                Dn
                3='-
                "
              
            
            
              
                (AV)
                is
                uncertain.
                Most
                recent
                authorities
                favour
              
            
            
              
                mantles
                (so
                AVm;
                RV
                has
                'hosen,'
                wh.
                see).
                For
              
            
            
              
                the
                'coat
                of
                mail'
                see
              
              
                Ahmouk,
              
              
                2
                (c).
              
            
          
          
            
              
                3.
              
              
                The
                Girdle.
              
              
                —
                Almost
                as
                indispensable
                as
                the
                tunic
              
            
            
              
                was
                the
              
              
                girdle,
              
              
                which
                varied
                in
                material
                and
                workman-ship
                from
                a
                simple
                rope
                (Is
              
              
                3'"
              
              
                RV)
                to
                the
                rich
                and
              
            
            
              
                elaborate
                waist-belt
                of
                the
                priests,
                and
                the
                'golden
              
            
            
              
                girdles'
                of
                Rev
                I's
                15'.
                Usually
                it
                consisted
                of
                a
                long
              
            
            
              
                strip
                of
                cloth,
                folded
                several
                times
                and
                wound
                round
              
            
            
              
                the
                waist
                above
                the
                tunic,
                with
                or
                without
                the
                ends
              
            
            
              
                hanging
                down
                in
                front.
                When
                work
                or
                a
                journey
                was
              
            
            
              
                in
                contemplation,
                the
                girdle
                was
                put
                on,
                and
                part
                of
                the
              
            
            
              
                tunic
                drawn
                up
                till
                it
                hung
                over
                in
                folds.
                Hence
                this
              
            
            
              
                operation
                of
                'girding
                the
                loins'
                became
                a
                figure
                for
              
            
            
              
                energetic
                action.
                The
                girdle
                served
                also
                as.
                a
                sword-belt
              
            
            
              
                (2
                S
                20');
                through
                it
                was
                stuck
                the
                writer's
                inkhorn
              
            
            
              
                (EzkQ'-
                "),
                while
                its
                folds
                served
                as
                a
                purse
                (Mt
                10'
                RVm).
              
            
            
              
                'The
                special
                priests'
                girdle,
                termed
              
              
                'abmt
              
              
                (Ex
                28'
                and
              
            
            
              
                oft.),
                was
                a
                richly
                embroidered
                sash
                wound
                several
                times
              
            
            
              
                round
                the
                waist,
                according
                to
                Josephus,
                and
                tied
                in
              
            
            
              
                front,
                the
                ends
                falUng
                to
                the
                ankles.
              
            
          
          
            
              
                4.
              
              
                Upper
                Garments.
              
              
                —
                While
                the
              
              
                kuttoneth
              
              
                or
                tunic
              
            
            
              
                was
                the
                garment
                in
                which
                the
                work
                of
                the
                day
                was
                done
              
            
            
              
                (see
                Mt
                24>8
                RV,
                Mk
                13"
                RV),
                men
                and
                women
                alike
              
            
            
              
                possessed
                a
                second
                garment,
                which
                served
                as
                a
                protection
              
            
            
              
                against
                inclement
                weather
                by
                day
                and
                as
                a
                covering
              
            
            
              
                by
                night
                (Ex
                22»').
                The
                two
                are
                sharply
                distin-guished
                in
                the
                familiar
                saying
                of
                Jesus:
                'If
                any
                man
              
            
            
              
                sue
                thee
                at
                the
                law
                and
                take
                away
                thy
              
              
                coat
              
              
                (chitBn),
              
            
            
              
                let
                him
                have
                thy
              
              
                cloke
              
              
                (himation)
              
              
                also'
                (Mt
                S").
              
            
          
          
            
              
                (o)
                The
                commonest
                name
                for
                this
                upper
                garment
                in
              
            
            
              
                OT
                is
              
              
                sitnlah
              
              
                or
              
              
                salmah.
              
              
                The
              
              
                «lmlah
              
              
                was
                almost
                cer-tainly
                a
                large
                rectangular
                piece
                of
                cloth,
                in
                most
                cases
              
            
            
              
                of
                wool,
                in
                more
                special
                cases
                of
                linen.
                It
                was
                thus
                the
              
            
            
              
                exact
                counterpart
                of
                the
              
              
                himation
              
              
                of
                the
                Greeks,
                which
              
            
            
              
                we
                have
                seen
                to
                be
                its
                NT
                name,
                and
                the
              
              
                pallium
              
              
                of
              
            
            
              
                the
                Romans.
                Like
                them,
                it
                belonged
                not
                to
                the
                class
              
            
            
              
                of
              
              
                endumata
              
              
                or
                garments
                '
                put
                on,'
                as
                the
                tunic,
                but
                to
              
            
            
              
                the
              
              
                periblemata
              
              
                or
                garments
                '
                wrapped
                round
                '
                the
                body.
              
            
          
          
            
              
                Since
                this
                view
                is
                at
                variance
                with
                that
                of
                acknowledged
              
            
            
              
                authorities
                on
                the
                subject
                (Nowack,
                Benzinger,
                Mackle
                in
              
            
            
              
                art.
                '
                Dresa
                '
                in
                Hastings'
              
              
                DB
              
              
                i.
                625),
                who
                identify
                the
              
              
                simlah
              
            
            
              
                with
                the
                modem
              
              
                'aba,
              
              
                the
                coarse
                loose
                overcoat
                of
                the
                modem
              
            
            
              
                Syrian
                peasantry,
                the
                groimds
                on
                which
                it
                is
                based
                may
                be
              
            
          
         
        
          
            
              
                DRESS
              
            
          
          
            
              
                here
                briefly
                set
                forth.
                (1)
                If
                the
                parallel
                passages.
                Ex
                22«'-and
                Dt
                24"i-
                "
                on
                the
                one
                hand,
                and
                Nu
                15=8
                and
                Dt
                221"
              
            
            
              
                on
                the
                other,
                are
                compared
                in
                the
                original,
                it
                will
                be
                foimd
              
            
            
              
                that
                three
                terms
                are
                used
                indiscriminately
                for
                the
                ordinary
              
            
            
              
                upper
                garment
                of
                the
                Hebrews,
                and,
                further,
                that
                this
                gar-ment
              
              
                had
                four
                corners,
              
              
                to
                each
                of
                which
                a
                tassel
                had
                to
                be
              
            
            
              
                attached
                (see
                more
                fully
              
              
                Fkinges)
              
              
                —
                a
                detail
                which
                suggests
              
            
            
              
                a
                plain
                f
                our-comered
                plaid
                Uke
                the
              
              
                himation,
              
              
                not
                a
                made-up
              
            
            
              
                garment
                like
                the
              
              
                chiton
              
              
                ot
              
              
                the*
                aba.
              
              
                (2)
                The
                incident
                of
                the
              
            
            
              
                sick
                woman
                in
                Mt
                9""
                and
                parallel
                passages,
                who
                reached
              
            
            
              
                forward
                in
                the
                crowd
                to
                touch
                the
                tassel
                of
                Jesus'
              
              
                himation
              
            
            
              
                from
                behind,
                Bixov/a
              
              
                that
                the
                Jewish
                upper
                garment
                waa
                still
              
            
            
              
                worn
                by
                being
                wrapped
                round
                the
                body,
                over
                the
                back
              
            
            
              
                from
                left
                to
                right,
                with
                one
                comer
                and
                its
                tassel
                falling
                over
              
            
            
              
                the
                left
                shoulder,
                (3)
                The
                shape
                of
                the
                simple
                oblong
              
              
                tallilh
              
            
            
              
                or
                prayer-shawl
                of
                the
                modem
                Jews,
                with
                its
                four
                tassels,
              
            
            
              
                which
                is
                the
                direct
                descendant
                of
                the
              
              
                8im.lah
              
              
                and
                the
                more
              
            
            
              
                recent
              
              
                taUith
                ai
              
              
                the
                Mishna,
                is
                in
                favour
                of
                the
                former
                having
              
            
            
              
                the
                shape
                now
                advocated.
                (4)
                'The
                clear
                distinction
                in
                N'T
              
            
            
              
                already
                referred
                to,
                between
                the
                two
                principal
                garments
              
            
            
              
                of
                the
                Jews,
                confirms
                the
                conclusion'that
                the
                typical
                Jewish
              
            
            
              
                upper
                garment
                closely
                resembled,
                if
                it
                was
                not
                identical
                with,
              
            
            
              
                the
                garment
                known
                as
                the
              
              
                himation
              
              
                throughout
                the
                Greek-
              
            
            
              
                speaking
                world.
              
            
          
          
            
              
                In
                our
                EV
                the
              
              
                simlah
              
              
                is
                concealed
                from
                the
                English
              
            
            
              
                reader
                under
                a
                variety
                of
                renderings.
                Thus,
                to
                give
              
            
            
              
                but
                a
                few
                illustrations,
                it
                is
                the
                '
              
              
                garment
              
              
                '
                with
                which
              
            
            
              
                Noah's
                nakedness
                was
                covered
                in
                Gn
              
              
                9'',
              
              
                and
                the
              
            
            
              
                '
              
              
                clothes
              
              
                '
                in
                which
                the
                Hebrews
                bound
                up
                their
                kneading-troughs
                (Ex
                12'<);
                it
                is
                the
                'garment'
                of
                Gideon
                in
              
            
            
              
                Jg
                8»,
                and
                the
              
              
                'raiment'
              
              
                of
                Ruth
                (3');
                just
                as
                the
              
            
            
              
                himation
              
              
                of
                NT
                is
                not
                only
                the
                '
              
              
                cloke
              
              
                '
                of
                Mt
                5",
                but
              
            
            
              
                the
                'clothes'
                of
                Mt
                24i8
                (but
                RV
                'cloke');
                the
                'gar-ment
                '
                of
                Mk
                13i«,
                and
                so
                on.
              
            
          
          
            
              
                (6)
                Another
                variety
                of
                upper
                garment,
                known
                as
              
            
            
              
                the
              
              
                me'
                U,
              
              
                is
                mentioned
                only
                in
                connexion
                with
                men
                of
              
            
            
              
                high
                social
                position
                or
                of
                the
                priestly
                order.
                It
                is
                the
              
            
            
              
                robe
              
              
                of
                Saul
                —
                the
              
              
                skirt
              
              
                (lit.
                'corner')
                of
                which
                was
                cut
              
            
            
              
                o£E
                by
                David
                (1
                S
                24'")—
                of
                Jonathan
                (18«),
                and
                of
              
            
            
              
                Ezra
                (Ezr
                9'-
                '),
                the
                Uttle
                'coat'
                of
                the
                boy-priest
              
            
            
              
                Samuel
                (1
                S
                2*'),
                and
                his
                'mantle'
                at
                a
                later
              
            
            
              
                stage
                (15^').
                RV
                has
                'robe'
                for
              
              
                me'll
              
              
                throughout.
              
            
            
              
                Wherein
                did
                the
              
              
                me'U
              
              
                differ
                from
                the
              
              
                simlah/
              
              
                From
              
            
            
              
                its
                constant
                association
                with
                men
                of
                rank,
                we
                should
              
            
            
              
                expect
                it
                to
                be
                of
                a
                more
                elaborate
                and
                ornate
                descrip-tion.
                The
                violet
                '
                robe
                of
                the
                ephod
                '
                prescribed
                for
                the
              
            
            
              
                high
                priest
                (Ex
                28"«-
                392«)
                had
                'a
                hole
                for
                the
                head
              
            
            
              
                in
                the
                midst
                thereof,
                as
                it
                were
                the
                hole
                of
                a
                coat
                of
                mail,'
              
            
            
              
                and
                was
                trimmed
                with
                an
                elaborate
                ball-and-bell
                fringe.
              
            
            
              
                Now
                on
                the
                black
                obelisk
                of
                Shalmaneser,
                the
                bearers
              
            
            
              
                of
                Jehu's
                tribute,
                nobles
                of
                Samaria
                doubtless,
                are
              
            
            
              
                represented
                wearing
                over
                their
                tunics
                a
                similar
                fringed
              
            
            
              
                and
                sleeveless
                garment,
                open
                at
                the
                sides,
                and
                resem-bling,
                if
                not
                identical
                with,
                the
                upper
                garment
                of
                Assyrian
              
            
            
              
                kings
                and
                dignitaries
                of
                state,
                which
                may
                with
                some
              
            
            
              
                confidence
                be
                identified
                with
                the
                me'
              
              
                U.
              
              
                The
                latter,
                then,
              
            
            
              
                seems
                to
                have
                been
                a
                piece
                of
                cloth
                of
                superior
                material
              
            
            
              
                and
                workmanship,
                in
                the
                shape
                of
                a
                magnified
                chest-
              
            
            
              
                protector,
                worn
                over
                the
                tunic
                like
                a
                priest's
                chasuble,
              
            
            
              
                and
                reaching
                almost
                to
                the
                ankles.
                It
                probably
                came
              
            
            
              
                to
                the
                Hebrews
                from
                Babylonia
                through
                the
                medium
              
            
            
              
                of
                the
                Canaanites,
                and
                survives
                to-day
                in
                the
                'little
              
            
            
              
                tallith'
                or
              
              
                arba
                kanphoth
              
              
                of
                the
                Jews
                (see
              
              
                Fringes).
              
            
            
              
                By
                the
                time
                of
                Josephus,
                the
                high
                priest's
              
              
                me'U
              
              
                had
              
            
            
              
                become
                a
                sleeveless
                and
                seamless
                upper
                tunic
                (Jos,
              
            
            
              
                Ant.
              
              
                III.
                vii.
                4).
              
            
          
          
            
              
                (c)
                A
                third
                variety
                of
                upper
                garment,
                the
              
              
                'addereth,
              
            
            
              
                appears
                to
                have
                been
                the
                distinctive
                garment
                of
                the
              
            
            
              
                prophets
                (see
                Zee
                13'
                RV
                'hairy
                mantle').
                EUjah's
              
            
            
              
                mantle,
              
              
                in
                particular,
                is
                always
                so
                named.
                The
                latter,
              
            
            
              
                according
                to
                the
                Gr.
                version
                of
                Kings,
                was
                made
                of
              
            
            
              
                sheepskin,
                with
                the
                wool
                outside
                (cf.
                2
                K
                1*
                RVm
                and
              
            
            
              
                Gn
                25^
                'hairy
                garment').
                It
                may,
                however,
                have
              
            
            
              
                been
                of
                goats'
                or
                camels'
                hair,
                as
                in
                the
                case
                of
                John
              
            
            
              
                the
                Baptist
                (Mt
                3',
                Mk
                1«).
              
            
          
          
            
              
                (,d)
              
              
                Among
                the
                products
                of
                the
                domestic
                loom
                was
                a
              
            
            
              
                fourth
                garment,
                the
                sadJn
                (Pr
                31").
                From
                the
                Mishna
              
            
            
              
                we
                learn
                that
                it
                was
                a
                plain
              
              
                sheet
              
              
                of
                fine
                linen
                with
              
            
            
              
                tassels,
                which
                could
                be
                used
                as
                a
                light
                upper
                garment.